As a vigneron, putting all of your time and attention into just one variety is a pretty brave move….. but when that variety is the notoriously fickle and hard to master Nebbiolo grape, it makes the endeavour truly lion hearted. But this is exactly what Karen Coats and Prue Keith at Virago Beechworth have set out to do. An endeavour so devilishly difficult, you just have to take your hat off… and wave it around a bit.
Virago is the latest addition to the From The Producer portfolio (now nearly 300 producers strong) and I dropped in with the whole extended family to pay them a visit when I was in Beechworth a few weeks ago. I had seen the label around before but became more interested when the Virago Nebbiolo 2012 won a place in the Vic 100. I was also happily following along on Instagram when I realised that this little producer was going above and beyond in the pursuit of vinous enlightenment. I just had to see it.
Unfortunately, I did a dumb thing and was so engrossed in our conversation that I forgot to take a bloody pic of the beautiful 2,000 vine vineyard. It’s the ultimate small production operation with everything being done by hand. Planted by hand, pruned by hand, thinned by hand, picked by hand, driven in the ute (by hand) up to Giaconda and made into a wonderful wine by one of the masters in Rick Kinzbrunner. That Rick has taken this project on really does speak volumes about the wineries potential. Get behind them and buy some wine
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